Of Chows and Dhows

Updated in September 2025

Aberdare National Park is one of the most beautiful parks in the country. I am convinced that the mountains hold secrets that they reveal to those willing to brave them. The serenity, oneness with nature and spectacular views you experience in the Mountains are unmatched. I have a love-hate relationship with hiking, but the reason I keep going back to the trails is the crisp, fresh air, raw beauty, clear streams, and, of course, the amazing views.

Since coming back from Tsavo, I have been craving some time out in nature. Going back to the Aberdares has always been top of my list, and when I got the opportunity to go back, it was a quick and easy yes. The trip was organised by Leetle Adventures and was KES 3,750 per person, inclusive of park entry fees, lunch, and transport.

The Journey

We began our journey from Nairobi at 6:00 am and used the scenic Kiambu-Githiga Road to the Naivasha-Nakuru highway. We passed by tea farms, which formed a beautiful backdrop against the rising sun. The road is smooth, and you can’t help but gawk at how beautiful the environs are. Naturally, the conversation evolved to how dreamy living in the countryside would be.

The road leads to Limuru town, from where you join the Naivasha-Nakuru highway. Per usual, we stopped at View Point for some quick snaps.

Take the turn to Kinangop/Ndaragwa, and the road to the national park is quite bumpy from this point.

Aberdare National Park

There are several entry points to Aberdare National Park: Nyeri and Naro Moru, but the best route to access the waterfalls is Naivasha-Mutubio Gate. If flying, the nearest airstrip is the Mweiga Airstrip along the Nyeri – Nyahururu road.

Aberdare National Park Entry Fees

	Citizens/ Residents	Non-Residents (USD)
Adult	300	52
Child	215	26

Please note that:

The prices are subject to change. Payment is cashless through ECitizen and is done via Mobile Money or Card. Park fees are valid for 24 hours from the time at which the bearer enters the Park.

It is important to have a Ranger accompany you on your trek within the park, in case you encounter animals, and the charge will be separate from the park fees.

Aside from waterfalls and crystal clear streams, game viewing in the park is a treat. The Aberdares are home to elephants, leopards, black rhinos, buffalo, hyenas, serval cats, bongos, zebras, warthogs, bushbucks, monkeys, and several other species.

Bird viewing and trout fishing are popular in the park, and for hiking enthusiasts, the Aberdare Ranges provide the perfect experience. Try hiking up Mt. Kinangop, Rurimeria Hill, Dragon’s Teeth, Oldoinyo Le Satima, and Elephant Hill for a challenge or in preparation to summit Mt. Kenya.

Waterfalls in Aberdare National Park

We drove for about ten minutes from the park gate to this point where we left the car and embarked on a 3km trek to Karuru Waterfalls.

Karuru Waterfalls

The weather was cool, and the air was crisp, which was perfect considering it was midday. The trail is straightforward and well-marked. A 4WD can easily make it through. You are treated to views of the golden moorlands and cool forests filled with cedar trees.

The moorlands took me back to Lake Ellis.

I love the sound of rushing water and flowing rivers, and as you draw nearer, you can hear the sound of the cascading falls. It was so exciting playing the guessing game and trying to figure out how far I was from the falls.

We finally got to the thundering Karuru Waterfall. Standing tall at 273 M, it is the tallest waterfall in the country. It falls in three steps, the first at 117 M, the second at 26 M and the third at 130 M.

A few meters away is a picnic area where you can view Karuru Falls from the front. We indulged in some snacks here as we experienced the spectacle.

Gura Waterfalls

Yet another beauty within the same vicinity as Karuru Falls is Gura Falls. You can only view Gura Falls from the Karuru Falls viewpoint.

Unfortunately, no hiking trails lead to the bottom of both falls for safety reasons. Both Falls stream into impenetrable ravines.

Afterwards, we hiked back to the car( for what seemed to be an eternity) and headed to the next waterfall.

Magura Waterfalls and Queens Cave

We parked the car and trekked for about ten minutes to Magura Waterfalls and Queens Cave. On the way to the falls, our knowledgeable Ranger Joseph gave us a quick history lesson about the place. Before she was crowned Queen, Princess Elizabeth was in the area when she received news of her father’s passing. The wooden spot where she had her lunch remains standing.

Behind the Falls are some caves, where the Mau Mau fighters would hide from the British.

Back to the car and on to the next.

Chania Waterfalls

Per usual, we parked the car at this point and started our descent.

The trail to Chania Falls is very steep, and there is a makeshift staircase and rail to help you climb up and down to the falls.

Seemingly taller than Magura Falls, Chania Falls was the fan favourite among the group. Chania feels a lot more private than the others, perhaps because it appears as though there is a wall surrounding the place.

Some opted to dip their feet in the ice-cold waters, but I was so exhausted at this point that I just had my lunch in silence and enjoyed the breathtaking view in front of me.

Swimming is not allowed in any of the pools.

The Park is clean, and I did not see any litter, which was impressive. You can tell that a lot of thought and effort has been put into maintaining the natural state of the park.

Places to stay in Aberdare National Park

Self-Catering:

Aberdare Fishing Lodges

These two simple cabins run by KWS can each accommodate a maximum of seven people on a self-catering basis. It is KES 14,000 per night for residents and KES 27,720 per night for non-residents. Enjoy trout fishing, hiking and walking safaris around the area. To get to the cabins, use the Nyeri-Treetops gate or Naivasha-Mutubio gate.

For more information, contact KWS.

Campsites:

• Reedbuck (At The Moorlands)
• Honi Campsite
• Shamata Campsite
• Bill Woodley Campsite
• P.C Haji’s Campsite
• Muringato (M1)
• Bongo (M2)
• Nyati (M3)
• Queen Beatrix (M5)
• Kiguru (K1)
• Kifaru (K2)
• Prince Charles

Visitors are advised to carry firewood for use at the fireplace to keep warm.

Lodges:

• The Ark Lodge

• Treetops Lodge

Things to note about Aberdare National Park

• For this particular circuit, you need a car to move around. Getting to the park gate is also quite a distance from the main road.
• The roads inside the park are murram, and a 2WD can make it; however, I would recommend using a 4WD, especially when it rains.
• Speaking of the rain, it is important to layer your clothing because of the drastic weather changes.
• Carry a raincoat or umbrella to use in case it rains.
• The hike is beginner-friendly.
• Wear comfortable shoes. The trails leading to the waterfalls are steep, and you do not want to exert too much pressure on your toes.
• Find more information about the hike here and contact KWS via Mobile: 0772-171242 and Hotline 0773789145 or Email:[email protected]

Find more tips here to help you prepare adequately for the hike.

I had a good time with amazing people and would highly recommend Leetle Adventures.

Chasing waterfalls in the Aberdares was a wonderful experience that I would encourage everyone to try. I cannot wait to go back and spend the night in the magical Aberdares.

Watch what went down here.

Let me know in the comments below which waterfalls you are dying to visit.